Review: Cafes of South Melbourne Walking Tour with Walk Melbourne

Caffeine-crazy Melbourne is home to hundreds of cafes, but finding the best options can be tricky — especially for visitors to the city. This walking tour of trendy South Melbourne solves that problem.
Cafes of South Melbourne Walking Tour
Cafes of South Melbourne Walking Tour
Review: Cafes of South Melbourne Walking Tour

Please note: Walk Melbourne no longer operates this tour, but they run a similar tour in the CBD. Alternatively, you may like to visit the venues listed in this review yourself.

It’s a chilly 13-degree morning in Melbourne, as I make my way to the south side of town.

I’m a little bleary eyed, having stayed up slightly later than I should have the night before. Two of our group have just flown in on the red-eye from Perth and even our tour guide Monique has that look in her eye. We all need a coffee — and we’ve come to the right place.

Monique heads up Walk Melbourne — a tour company that’s all about helping visitors discover the city’s hidden treasures on foot — and we’re about to set off on their Cafes of South Melbourne Walking Tour. Monique is also a published food writer and former barista, and she secretly admits to me that this is her favourite tour. That comes as no surprise, given every Melburnian’s obsession with the liquid gold — second only, perhaps, to basic black.

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It wasn’t always this way. Up until the wave of Italian and Greek migration to Melbourne in the 1940s, 50s and 60s, we’d survived largely on a diet of ground coffee shipped in from England. The first espresso machine arrived in Melbourne in the mid 50s, but for years they were regarded somewhat with suspicion by most of us as we quietly drank our morning cups of instant.

Today of course the city is awash with purveyors of espresso coffee, all vying for the affections of the voracious caffeine-consuming public. One cafe can be packed with a queue down the street, while the one next door sits virtually empty. Why? A complex equation of barista credentials, great beans, an aspirational décor and a healthy dash of street cred. Put simply, some have it, some don’t.

Cafes of South Melbourne Walking Tour
Cafes of South Melbourne Walking Tour: Dead Man Espresso. Image: Adam Ford

South Melbourne has plenty of ‘it’, and this tour visits four of the suburb’s most popular cafes. We begin at the South Melbourne Market on Cecil Street and a visit to Clement Coffee Roasters — a wood-paneled hole in the wall that’s renowned for its lightly roasted beans, allowing the flavours to come through more intensely.

Monique encourages us to drink our coffees black on this tour as milk dulls the taste. To get the ball rolling I try a heart-starting short black of Clement’s Pony blend, with its zesty apple and lemon undertones. Special mention to the donuts on offer from one of the city’s finest artisanal bakers — Cobb Lane. Sweet bliss indeed.

Cafes of South Melbourne Walking Tour
Cafes of South Melbourne Walking Tour: Padre Coffee. Image: Adam Ford

From there we make our way into the heart of the market to Padre Coffee. This place is pumping, with wall-to-wall customers and a team of baristas calmly riding the wave of adoring popularity.

Over another short black — this time an Indian blend with distinct berry undertones — Monique tells us more about the pros of drinking filtered coffee. And before you turn your nose up at this, remember that filtering is the way it’s done on the international coffee bean competition circuit, as this process produces a smoother, more rounded drinking experience.

Cafes of South Melbourne Walking Tour
Cafes of South Melbourne Walking Tour: St Ali. Image: Adam Ford

Leaving the maelstrom of the market behind, we head across Clarendon Street and on to one of Melbourne’s biggest and best-known specialty coffee roasters — St Ali in Yarra Place.

The place is remodeling — I think. There are wires and naked light globes festooned around the cavernous interior packed with patrons, but that could well be the look. Here Monique convinces everyone to try a couple of filtered options, with varying degrees of success. For me, the pre-bottled cold-filtered option is the preferred style. It even comes in six-packs and slabs.

Cafes of South Melbourne Walking Tour
Cafes of South Melbourne Walking Tour: St Ali. Image: Adam Ford

The final destination on this Cafes of South Melbourne Walking Tour is one of the city’s original breed of innovative cafes that’s managed to keep up the pace for several years now. Dead Man Espresso takes its name from the macabre history of this neck of the woods. The area was once the site of ‘Canvas Town’ — a notorious and dangerous slum for migrant workers established during the gold rush of 1851.

I throw in the coffee-soaked towel and order a hot chocolate by Mork — a blend of 70% cocoa and 30% sugar. It’s a product of Melbourne and absolutely delicious.

Cafes of South Melbourne Walking Tour
Cafes of South Melbourne Walking Tour: Dead Man Espresso. Image: Adam Ford

To say we walk away from this tour and continue our respective weekends with a caffeine-induced spring in our step would be an understatement. This Cafes of South Melbourne Walking Tour is a great way for any visitor to get a broad taste of the city’s vibrant coffee culture.

The writer travelled as a guest of Walk Melbourne.

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Additional images: Bigstock

Adam Ford

About the writer

Adam Ford is editor of Top Oz Tours & Travel Ideas, and a travel TV presenter, writer, blogger, and photographer. He has travelled extensively through Europe, Asia, North America, Africa, and the Middle East. Adam worked as a travel consultant for a number of years with Flight Centre before taking up the opportunity to travel the world himself as host of the TV series Tour the World on Network Ten. He loves to experience everything a new destination has to offer and is equally at home in a five-star Palazzo in Pisa or a home-stay in Hanoi.
 

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