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The many words of advice I received while planning a recent visit to India made me feel rather anxious.
‘Shower with your mouth closed’, said one friend. ‘Keep your hands away from your face’, implored another. I’m told to stick to vegetarian meals and only eat food that is freshly cooked. Salads and ice are out; fruits you peel are in. While getting my vaccinations up to date (a very costly exercise!), I nervously ask about rabies. ‘Avoid dogs completely!’, replies my GP. I buy a big box of Travelan (which claims to prevent most food related stomach upsets when taken before a meal) and stock up on copious amounts of hand sanitiser. In short, I am ready for anything!
On arrival in Chennai, I took a deep breath and stepped out of the sanctuary of the airport. A sea of people were calling out and waving signs at me. I relaxed at the sight of my name typed on a crumpled piece of paper. My driver took me to a simple guesthouse, where the receptionist explained how to turn the hot water on for the shower, but not how to use the bucket and jug in the corner of the room. It may be obvious to you, but I was at a complete loss and covertly sort answers from Google at an Internet cafe. I also learned the correct use of a squat toilet (this amusing YouTube video proved extremely helpful!).
For the next week I volunteered my labour on a community building project outside Pondicherry with Habitat for Humanity. The experience was life-changing and one I’d highly recommend. After the build, I joined a 15-day Intrepid Travel tour from Delhi to Goa. Transport was by local bus and the two nights on a sleeper train certainly pushed me well beyond my comfort zone.
I coped with the heat by drinking plenty of water — much more than I would at home. I kept a bottle of purified water next to the bathroom basin, to prompt me to use it — rather than tap water — when brushing my teeth. A fellow traveller forgot, and she paid the price.
It’s funny to recall my doctor’s advice about dogs. They’re generally not a problem, but she should have warned me about the monkeys! While visiting Elephanta Island (off the coast from Mumbai), a monkey with a baby started to chase me. She bared her teeth, hissed and spat at me. Frightened, I shouted at her. Someone called out: ‘Your water!’. I unscrewed the lid of the bottle in my hand and sprayed water at the snarling animal. Later I realised that she was probably after the water to drink.
You’ll often hear travellers who’ve been to India discussing the gut-wrenching poverty. Consider making a donation to a local charity, rather than giving handouts to beggars and children. If you’re travelling with a tour company like Intrepid, they’ll be happy to recommend worthwhile causes to support.
The food in India is amazing. I tried hard to practise the food hygiene standards recommended by friends and I managed to avoid getting ill. I ate freshly cooked street food along the way, and drank masala chai in the most unlikely places. The walls of a teahouse might be old and stained, but the tea from the blackened pots will be hot and deliciously sweet.
Some of the highlights of my trip included visiting the Gurudwara Bangla Sahib Sikh Temple in Delhi and the fabulous Taj Mahal in Agra (although naively, I didn’t expect to encounter such huge crowds), exploring the market streets of Udaipur, and watching the sun rise over the Savitri Temple in Pushkar. A hot air balloon flight over the pink city of Jaipur proved unforgettable.
India is a country of extreme contrasts, and what may look at first glance like complete chaos actually has extraordinary order. Go with an open mind and you’ll enjoy the experience.
The writer won a competition to participate in the build with Habitat for Humanity. The rest of her trip was self-funded.
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Additional images: Bigstock
About the writer
Joanne Karcz is a Sydney-based travel writer, and has explored much of her home country, Europe, South America, and Southern Africa. She published a blog while walking the Camino de Santiago some years ago and has been writing about her adventures ever since. Joanne is also an aspiring photographer and takes her camera wherever she goes. She loves discovering new things to see and do in her own Sydney backyard, and blogs regularly about the city’s suburbs.
